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Wells Cathedral, England

Wells is a small city in Somerset, England, not far from where I live in Bath. The construction of Wells Cathedral began in 1175 and was largely completed by the mid-13th century making it one of the earliest Gothic cathedrals in England.

In this article, I take you through the highlights based on my visit in May 2024.

Wells Cathedral west front. Photo by JFPenn

The cathedral’s west front is adorned with nearly 300 statues of saints, kings, angels, and biblical characters. Many are weathered and eroded, with some being replaced by new carvings. Originally, many of the statues and the west front itself were painted in vibrant colours, though much of the paint has worn away over the centuries.

Wells Cathedral detail of west front Photo by JFPenn

When we visited in May 2024, the nave was filled with Peace Doves, a mass participation artwork by sculptor and artist Peter Walker.

Peace Doves Wells Cathedral Photo by JFPenn

I always like to look up when in cathedrals. This is the nave ceiling nearest the altar.

Nave ceiling Wells Cathedral Photo by JFPenn

Wells Cathedral is famous for its scissor arches, which support the central tower, but also provide a softness to the architecture that is missing in so many Gothic cathedrals. This design distributes the weight of the tower more evenly across the foundations and into the ground, effectively counteracting the forces that were causing the tower to sink and tilt. It’s amazing to consider that these were constructed in the mid-14th century.

Scissor arch behind altar, Wells Cathedral Photo by JFPenn

While there are scissor arches in other cathedrals, at Wells, they are a central feature. They make up three sides of the crossing.

Scissor arches at the crossing, Wells Cathedral Photo by JFPenn

I also loved the way the church community has integrated high backed chairs seem in the picture below. I think they give almost a Tolkien elvish vibe to the nave. The Peace Doves hang down in the nave.

Looking back from crossing into nave Wells Cathedral Photo by JFPenn

Wells Cathedral is primarily constructed from Doulting stone, a type of fine-grained oolitic limestone sourced from nearby quarries in Doulting, Somerset. This limestone has been favored for its durability and workability, and it also has a warm, pale, honey-colored hue, which gives the Cathedral its soft and inviting appearance. The stone’s softness also allows for detailed craftsmanship, adding to the overall beauty and historical value of the cathedral.

I take a lot of photos on my book research trips, but I am often alone. On this trip, my husband, Jonathan came too and caught me mid-photo!

JFPenn in Wells Cathedral 2024

Wells Cathedral houses one of the oldest working mechanical clocks in the world, dating back to the 14th century. Its face depicts a medieval universe with a 24-hour clock and moving jousting knights. It ‘performs’ every 15 minutes so make sure you see the little jousting match!

Wells Cathedral Clock Photo by JFPenn

The choir area is separated from the Nave.

Choir Wells Cathedral Photo by JFPenn

I love the pointed arches behind the altar. The symmetry is so pleasing.

Wells Cathedral pointed arches above altar, Photo by JFPenn

The organ stands between the two areas. The photo below is looking back towards the nave.

Looking toward nave from choir Wells Cathedral Photo by JFPenn

This Cope Chest was made in 1120 to hold the vestments of the clergy and is still in use today.

Cope chest Wells Cathedral Photo by JFPenn

In the crypt, I found this wonderful medieval door dated back to 1265, although the ironwork may be later.

Medieval door Wells Cathedral Photo by JFPenn

The octagonal Chapter House, with its beautiful fan vaulting, is accessed by a picturesque staircase, which is also worn and slippery, so hold onto the railing!

The cathedral’s library contains a rare chain library, where books are attached to shelves with chains to prevent theft, a common practice in medieval times. I wasn’t able to visit as it was closed at the time.

Outside in the small cloister garden, the cathedral had a set of rainbow wings for that perfect Instagrammable moment! I couldn’t resist.

JFPenn at Wells Cathedral May 2024

There’s a small graveyard in the garden outside, which provides a quiet place in the sun — depending on the weather!

Graves at Wells Cathedral Photo by JFPenn

A statue of Jesus, barefoot and contemplative, looks up at the cathedral.

Statue of Jesus looking up at Wells Cathedral Photo by JFPenn

There is a cafe upstairs where you can have coffee and cake, and a gift shop.

Adjacent to the cathedral is the Bishops Palace, a moated medieval palace that has been the residence of the Bishops of Bath and Wells for over 800 years. You can walk around the outside or get a coffee or an ice cream inside, or pay to enter the site itself.

Bishops Palace Wells Photo by JFPenn

I hope this has given you a sense of how wonderful Wells Cathedral is. If you’re in the area, you might also enjoy Bath or Salisbury. Have a wonderful trip!

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